6. PAPERWORK: You should always get some paperwork on your pup. If you are buying a registered dog you should get
the registration papers or a copy of the reg. papers if being held for any reason when you pick up your pup. Sometimes these
may still be being processed, so waiting or having the breeder sign a contract to get the registration later is sufficient, but get
something in writing as to why your not getting it & when you will. Make sure to see or get a copy of both the parents reg.
to verify that the pups are registerable is also a wise thing. For a registered dog you should also get a copy of both the parents
pedigrees. It shows you who the parents & past generations are. You should also get copies of all standard medical
tests done on both parents & on any past generations. You should also get the pup's shot/worming record that includes dates &
types of medication used. Nothing in life guarantee's a pups health or quality but making sure the parents have been tested
for certain genetic medical issues pertinent to their breed is a positive step, a plus is getting copies of those tests on as many
past generations as possible. Also you may be the 1 in 100 that gets a pup with a problem, even the Best Breeders ends up with
one every now & again no matter what they do. Birth defects, genetics ,disease, etc. so when you decide to get a pup make
a contingency plan on how to financially & emotionally handle if you are the 1 in 100. Make the Breeder aware of the situation
so they can evaluate how & if it effects their breeding stock & work with the Breeder in solving the issue if there is a way
7. REFERENCES: A good breeder will be happy to give you references. Personally, I send out a yearly
questionaire to each owner asking questions about health, temperment, etc. on their pet. I ask if & what can be shared
(name, phone, address), & open them up to potential clients if allowed. This makes a good one step process- they have
access to health info, temperment & any comments made by the owners. Of course not all owners send this info back, but I
do have pretty thick yearly folders.
8. CONTRACTS/WARRENTIES: No one can guarantee the health, personality,
temperment of any live animal, they can add a health statement saying in the event of a health issues it will be handled
like this. You should get in writing what happens if there is a health issue, make sure enough time is written in
to have your vet check the pup over. Make sure you agree & understand exactly what it is you are signing, before you sign.
Signed contracts are legal documents.
9. OTHER: Some breeders will only provide registration applications after all fees have
been paid, and/or spaying/neutering is proven, etc. This depends upon the contract & the breeder & is perfectly
reasonable & legal. Typically a larger purchase price will be assessed if a person wants to keep the animal intact
10. RETURNS: A reputable breeder will allow some time (min. 48 hours to 10 days) for return of pup/dog, in the
same condition as time of sale, for any reason with refund of purchase price minus deposits & micro-chipping fees. Also
if original paperwork is not return & has to be replaced ADDITIONAL fees are usually incurred. This allows you time to have your
pup examined by your own vet. However, remember a reputable breeder will take back any dog for any reason regardless of age. You may
not receive a refund, or may be asked to wait to receive a refund pending investigation of medical issues with the pup, &
some breeders give no refunds.
We have a non-refundable $100.00 waiting list fee & then a 2nd non-refundable
$100.00 hold fee for when you pick out & we hold an individual puppy for you, this covers taking the pup off the market excluding
it from potential homes. The fee is used to cover other expenses & additional advertising to be incurred to re-sell that
pup. If you paid extra to have your pup micro-chipped & then return it, the pup will be offered to the next person
if they chose to have it micro-chipped the money will be forwarded to the original purchaser - if they new owner chooses not to have
it micro-chipped they will be informed that it already was micro-chipped and then offered if they want to proceed with the sale
or take another puppy instead, if they still decide to take the puppy no money will be forwarded, as it was not their choice
to have said puppy micro-chipped.